Interestingly, the oil filter on this engine, when removed from the top of the vehicle (as I did) is very close to the distributor. But the shop manual says the crankshaft gear is cast iron, and the camshaft gear aluminum, not nylon - but who knows what was used during the overhaul.Īny guesses as to what's wrong or where to look? Whatever it is, it happened very suddenly - it was running great when it went on the ramps, running horribly when it came off the ramps.Īs it is, I don't think it has enough power to drive it, and even if it did, with the overheating I don't want to drive it. Could the gearing that connects the camshaft to the crankshaft have failed? (There is no chain on this engine, camshaft is gear driven).īrother in law told me he thought originally one of the gears driving the camshaft was nylon, and in fact, failed which lead to his first overhaul around 140,000 miles. When trying to start the engine now, and while trying to keep it running, it does sound like the timing is WAY off - it spits through the carb and also the exhaust. So now I am thinking it is not a head gasket. I ran the engine with the radiator cap off, no bubbles in the coolant. No sign of coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. In addition, no steam out of the tail pipe. This happened suddenly, immediately after the oil change.Īt first, I was thinking bad head gasket, but in my 45 years of wrenching, I've never had a head gasket fail this suddenly, usually they go gradually. (I know, I know, how could it be a coincidence, but I swear I didn't do anything that could cause this!) I cannot figure out for the life of me what I did - I am thinking it is just a coincidence and something failed internally. I have done hundreds of oil changes and have never had a problem before. It has never done this before, and as I said, was running great before the oil change. And, I have never seen the coolant temps rise so rapidly - I can't keep it running long or it will overheat. If I let off the throttle, it slows down to barely running, extremely rough, and then dies. I have to hold the throttle half way to the floor to keep it running, and it is REALLY rough. Of course, I turned it off before it completely overheated. Extremely rough, and would overheat quickly. When I got the vehicle down off the ramps, it was a little difficult to start, and when it did, it ran really BAD. I changed the oil, lubed the 10 front suspension zerks, replaced the filter, etc. When I came home, I pulled up on car ramps so I could change the oil. The engine ran beautifully, good power, smooth running, etc. Yesterday, I drove the vehicle, on a 50 mile round trip. I am the second owner, the vehicle was given to me by my brother in law. It has 310,000 miles on it, and has been overhauled twice, the last time was 30,000 miles ago. Housing and Axle packages are shipped as separate components and require assembly and additional parts.I have a 1977 El Camino with the straight 6 250 cubic inch straight 6 engine. Housing and Axle Packages - Built to exacting standards to match the factory specifications for suspension mounting points, pinion location, overall axle width, and wheel bolt pattern for an easy, hassle-free installation. Rear-End Builders - All the features of a Crate Axle, with additional gear ratio options, differential types, gear polishing, finish colors, and more. Currie Ford 9-inch rear ends are built to match the vehicle's original equipment axle width, pinion location, suspension mounting points, and wheel bolt pattern - for a hassle-free installation that will get you driving fast! Currie ® Ford 9-inch rear ends for 1978 thru 1988 GM G-body vehicles provide a direct bolt-in solution for those looking to upgrade the rear end of their classic muscle car or restomod build.
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